Answered Questions on Geeky Nomads

Your fuel pump repair

Wed, 20 Dec 2017 21:17:13 -0500

Q: Can you give me the Motorcraft part number you installed in the tank?

Thank you

A: Hi it looks like the part I used was PFS48. Hope that helps.

FUEL PUMP

Tue, 11 Oct 2016 23:07:32 -0400

Q: COULD A IN LINE PUMP WORK TEMP ? AS LONG AS IT HAD THE 45 PSI OR MORE PRESUURE

A: Not sure, but I suspect it could help. The old pumps don’t appear to hard fail but instead get weak.

Just put deposit down on 2000 U320 40' no slide coach 81,000 miles

Sat, 11 Jun 2016 01:25:03 -0400

Q: Sight unseen with Florida dealer…got a few outside pics…looks good so far. Should be in Tampa on the 24th and if it looks good we will fly there to inspect and buy. Dealer is asking $37,950 as is but even he has not really seen it yet. Anyhow, we may soon own it so your blog is super interesting. Going full time initially as sold our sailboat after 14 years…similar life and gear in may ways. Anyhow thanks…any pre purchase inspection advice greatly appreciated!

Carl and Kathleen

A: Wow, I’m ready to jump into a sailboat and out of a Foretravel :-P Good luck. Anyway, that price is way way too low, I would expect to find a wreck of a coach for that price. Be very wary. That coach should be $60K, probably more if in superb condition. You should join foreforums (foreforums.com) as I’m on there and a lot of people can give you advice and check out the coach listing.

Do you have any tank dumping tips?

Sat, 26 Apr 2014 17:32:15 -0400

Tank dumping kind of sucks any way around it, but here are some things we've found that seriously improve the process.

1) Get a good sewer hose. A good sewer hose like the Camco Revolution Kit which we used with our Winnebago or the Camco Rhinoflex Kit which we use now with the Foretravel are both pretty effective. A good sewer hose goes a long way to making the dumping process easier and cleaner. Besides extending and retracting nicely they have caps at the end which seal in any residual nasty,

2) Most campgrounds have the threaded dump holes that the kits above screw right into. Neat, clean and somewhat odor free (there's always some escapee odor). Some however have what amounts to just a hole and for those situations you would be much happier if you are equipped with a sewer donut. You can slide the end into this and it makes a nice seal even on unthreaded connections.

3) When hooking up at a campground carefully plan and think about your process. When hooking up, make sure to hook your fresh water hose up first before you touch anything nasty. When departing and cleaning up, disconnect the fresh water hose first, covering the end to avoid the open end touching anything nasty. I treat my entire sewer hose as a hazardous material, inside and out. So far, no illnesses.

4) Have a "dirty" garden hose. This hose shouldn't really be dirty but it shouldn't touch your fresh water stuff. This hose is used for washing out your sewer hose after you disconnect it from the RV. You should also only use this hose for your built in tank flush or in the case of RV's that don't come with one, your add on tank flush valve.

5) Disconnect your sewer hose from the RV first. Rinse it out while stilll connected to the sewer hole. Cap the hose and then compress the hose while still connected. Any residual odors in the hose will be forced into the sewer outlet and kept out of your nose.

Besides those items, the big ones you will read nearly everywhere are that you should never leave your black tank open and instead only drain it when it is full. The other one is that you should hold some gray water to rinse the err black effluent out of the line after draining the black. Always drain black first, then gray. Aside from those details, the process is intutitive as it sounds. Hook up a hose, pull a valve, wait for stinky brown water to go somewhere else.